Rodì Milici Destination in Sicily · Province of Messina

Rodì Milici is a village in the province of Messina (now the Metropolitan City of Messina) in northeastern Sicily, about a quarter of an hour by car from the Golfo di Tindari. It is known for the remains of the ancient town of Longane, a pink dome on the Patrì stream, and a carnival in which twelve riders on donkeys play the months of the year.

Where Rodì Milici lies

The municipality has just under 2,000 inhabitants and is made up of two districts, Rodì and Milici, about three kilometers apart. Both sit at roughly 125 meters above sea level in the foothills of the Peloritani mountains, a few kilometers from the Tyrrhenian Sea. From either district you look out across the Milazzo plain toward the Aeolian Islands, Tindari and Castroreale.

What is there to see in Rodì Milici?

The sights are small and mostly historical, and a day is usually enough to walk both districts and visit the sites on the hills:

• Cupola Rosata: The flood of 1582 buried this pink dome on the bank of the Patrì stream, and it stayed hidden until excavations in 1989. Its color comes from cocciopesto, a plaster made with crushed brick.
• Grand Priory of the Knights Hospitaller in Milici: The remains of the complex and the Palazzo dei Cavalieri di San Giovanni date from the 13th to the 15th century. Beside them stands the church of San Giovanni Battista e Santa Maria delle Grazie, built in the Norman-Swabian period.
• Monte Ciappa and Monte Grassorella: Sections of the walls of ancient Longane survive on Monte Ciappa, while Monte Grassorella has prehistoric rock-cut tombs and a Hellenistic farmstead. Silver coins and a bronze herald’s staff from the 5th century BC attest to Longane; the staff is now in the British Museum in London.

The area produces olive oil and wine, fresh cheeses such as ricotta, primosale and tuma, and cured meats.

What are the “Mesi dell’Anno”?

The “Mesi dell’Anno” (Months of the Year) is the village carnival. Twelve riders in historical costume, each one a month, ride through town on donkeys and deliver a satirical recital in the local dialect. It is performed on the Sunday before Shrove Tuesday and on Shrove Tuesday itself, and it is listed in the Sicilian register of intangible heritage (REIS). Check the dates each year, as they change with the carnival calendar.

Getting there and trips to the coast

Leave the A20 highway at the Barcellona Pozzo di Gotto exit and follow the SS 113 and then the SP 93 to Rodì Milici. The coast on the Gulf of Tindari, with places such as Tonnarella, Portorosa and Oliveri, is a short drive away. Good day trips are Tindari, with its sanctuary and ancient site, and the port of Milazzo, where ferries leave for the Aeolian Islands.

When to go

Long-term averages (air 1995–2024, sea 2023–2025) for the north coast near Palermo give a useful guide. In May, daytime highs there reach about 23 °C (73 °F) with the sea around 20 °C (68 °F); in June, 27 °C (81 °F) and 24 °C (75 °F). July and August peak near 30 °C (86 °F), with water around 28 °C (82 °F). September still brings about 27 °C (81 °F) on land and 26 °C (79 °F) in the sea, and October around 23 °C (73 °F) with the sea near 24 °C (75 °F). If you come for carnival in February, expect highs of about 14 °C (57 °F).

Who Rodì Milici suits

The village is a good fit for travelers interested in archaeology and local history who like small sites without crowds. Because the Gulf of Tindari and the port of Milazzo are close, a quiet stay in the hills combines easily with beach days and a trip out to the Aeolian Islands.